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Post by wrjames2 on Aug 3, 2009 21:29:07 GMT -5
I read in the knife pattern book that carbide knives were the way to go if cutting MDF. I know HSS will not last as long, but how much MDF can I cut with a HSS and still get a good looking molding?
Also, does anyone one carbide knives? If so, what is the price difference? Is it worth the investment?
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Post by wrjames2 on Aug 5, 2009 19:19:54 GMT -5
As a coincidence, woodmaster sent an update to their web site today - with the answer to my question (sort of). www.woodmastermoldingknives.comIt gives the prices. WOW - carbide is EXPENSIVE!!!!!! Still looking for the answer to the first question, though. |
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Post by justin on Aug 6, 2009 21:39:09 GMT -5
Yes carbide is totally expensive. If you are going to run alot of mdf then I'd say yes it is worth it. For a couple of hundred feet I'd not mess with it. I never run carbide on anything since it won't hold it's edge as long.
Justin
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Post by cooner1 on Aug 24, 2009 10:29:50 GMT -5
justin am i reading you right?, carbide dulls quicker than hss? i would've thought the opposite.
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Post by justin on Aug 24, 2009 23:06:46 GMT -5
No, what I mean't to say was carbide will stay sharper longer but will lose that super sharp edge that you get with HHS knives. I use carbide for cutting flooring but won't use it it for log siding because it causes the finish to be more glazed looking.
Justin
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Post by cooner1 on Aug 25, 2009 6:41:14 GMT -5
understand. i thought i was going crazy or something. i use carbide shaper cutters for all my t&g runs, which is slow to say the least. i use a trapped cut, outboard fence. anyways, i expect i've run 50,000 l.f. through my flooring cutters and they're still kickin. i'am ordering a power platform and router attachment for my machine today. do you have a bottom router setup on any of your machines? if so could i get a picture of how it's mounted and such? woodmaster does not make a lower attachment kit for a 712 so i've got to fabricate something myself. which won't be hard to do, but i'd like to see one already setup. tks, melvin
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Post by justin on Aug 25, 2009 22:49:06 GMT -5
Melvin,
I dont now but I use to. I started with the top mounted router set up from Woodmaster. That thing is a waist of time. Every time you make a planer head ajustment it would change the router height. So I took my outfeed table, mounted one pc 718 router off to one side it and it worked ok for awhile. The problem I had was when running flooring the router would just stop after about 500 lineal ft. So i changed the whole thing. I mounted a 7 1/2 hp motor on a new outfeed table. It was the best thing ever. I never have any problems with it at all. If you want I can post pictures.
justin
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Post by cooner1 on Aug 26, 2009 6:44:08 GMT -5
hey thanks, i'd love to see some good pics of your setup. i've been spinning my wheels using a shaper for all my t&g. to much touch time. i've got access to some good motors that would prob work. i've also got one of the smaller type 1 1/2 horse shapers(bridgewood) sitting here i don't use. thought it would be great if i could figure out how to mount the thing to the outfeed and make it adjustable side to side. a lot of weight though.tks, melvin
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Post by woodcpl on Sept 4, 2009 21:20:42 GMT -5
hey, justin - can you pull out the router mounting info and start a new thread? someone interested in that wouldn't know it is hidden in a knife ?
thanks
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Post by boardmaker on Sept 10, 2009 16:59:36 GMT -5
Justin,
Just curious about which router and T&G bits you were using.
I am tempted to try this.
Did the router just quit or did the bit just get to dull?
500 lin. feet just isn't going to do it for me.
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Post by justin on Sept 10, 2009 19:16:01 GMT -5
boardmaker,
I'm not sure why the routers would quit, I'm guessing they overheat. I spoke with one of the sales guys at woodmaster and they said that it wasn't unheard of. All I would do was touch the bit with a short stick and they would start back up again. But the stopping causes the the stock to get jammed and the guides to want to move so you would end up starting the set up all over again.
As far as the bits getting dull I never ran enough footage to dull a set out, I changed so may sets thinking it was the bits that they all still look near new.
Another thing I don't like about this set up is that if try to run one router on top and one on the bottom you may end up with one climb cutting and the other not. (Which most router rotations can be changed by switching the brushes or so I'm told) I climb cut all the time with no problem it just depends on what it is your cutting.
I believe you can cut with this method. Woodmaster has a video of it on the website but I just think slower feed rates are required and I hate to go slow.
Justin
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Post by boardmaker on Sept 11, 2009 8:01:24 GMT -5
Justin,
Could you tell me which routers you are using and which bits. I'm assuming over 3 hp. Just want to know so I know what to expect. If you don't want to post it for everyone, could you pm me.
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Post by justin on Sept 13, 2009 17:54:22 GMT -5
Sure, Porter Cable 7815 3 1/4 hp routers and the bits were t&g bits from mlcs and grizzly. I even made an arbor to fit some 3tip t&g shaper bits.
I know the routers are good because I use them all the time.
Justin
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